THE Holga FAQ
Last updated, 03/22/2006
My Woca.
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Most
Frequently Asked Question: I just got a Holga! Is there anything I should know
about it before I start using it so I can get awesome, colorful, Lomographic
pictures?
Answer: NO!
But if you insist, please read this FAQ. If you still
have questions, please feel free to post them to the allthingsHolga LJ Community.
1. Cameras
a. What are the
different cameras that Holga makes?
· Holga 120 - The infamous and original Holga. Plastic body, plastic lens,
medium format camera. Uses 120 film. See FILM section for more information.
1. Shutter speed: ~1/100th
second, Aperture: f/8 (that’s right, that cloudy/sunny switch does nothing)
· Woca 120 - The glass lensed sibling of the Holga. The Woca is
identical to the Holga except its lens is made from glass rather than plastic
and is therefore supposedly sharper.
· Holga 35 AF – A 35mm auto focus camera
· Holga 35 MF – A 35m manual focus camera
· Holga K-202 (“Holga Meow”)
1. A “toy” 35mm camera that
makes noises and flashes lights on the front when you take a photograph. Supposedly
for the purpose of attracting the attention of children and animals when you’re
taking their picture.
2. Aperture: f/8, Shutter Speed ?, 35mm lens, fixed focus
·
Holga K-220
– A mystery 35mm. Someone in the allthingsholga LJ community found one at a
thrift store and another person located this photo of it,
but no specs have been located yet. I would assume similar specs to the K-202.
Please e-mail me if you have a
manual or any more info on this camera.
·
Holga Micro-110 – Uses 110 film. Is very small. I don’t currently have any information
other than that.
b. Where can I buy a
Holga?
· eBay
· B&H
· HolgaMods.com – Order a
“vanilla” Holga or one with modifications already made.
· The
Maine Photographic Resource
a. What do all
those letters mean?
1.
Holga 120S: Basic
standard Holga, plastic lens, no features (According to Randy at holgamods.com,
Holga has stopped manufacturing S’s and only makes new N’s)
2.
Holga 120SF: Same
as S, but with a built in flash
3.
Holga 120N: Bulb
mode, tripod mount, hot shoe
4.
Holga 120FN: Bulb
mode, tripod mount, built in flash
5.
Holga 120CFN:
Bulb mode, tripod mount, built in colorwheel flash
6.
Woca 120G: Like
the 120S, but with a glass lens
7.
Woca 120GF: Like
the 120SF, but with a glass lens
b. What is a
Holgaroid/Polga?
·
For around US$100
you can purchase your very own Polaroid back for the Holga. This is a piece of
equipment that replaces the plastic back-piece on your camera and holds
Polaroid instant film. It turns your $20 Holga into a $120 Polaroid (or
Holgaroid, or Polga). Very nice for people who have no patience and can’t wait
to see how their photos will turn out.
·
You can find the
manual for the Holga Polaroid back here:
a.
http://www.polaroid.com/media/com/pdfs/products_internal/PR032_holder_instruct_49f9.pdf
c. What is a
Pinholga?
1. This is the snappy sounding name for a Holga that has
had the lens removed and has been turned into a pinhole camera. There are a
number of ways to do this, some leaving you with a shutter to make your
exposure, some with just a flap of black tape. See the “Where to buy a Holga”
section for a link to Holgamods where you can purchase a pre-made PinHolga.
d.
What is a Holga-D?
1. Holga-D is the name used for a Holga that’s been
modified to accept a digital back like the Imacon Ixpress (which I believe is
designed for the Hasselblad). They were commercially offered at one time by
cameras.com, but I believed they have been removed from the website.
e. What is a
Holga-F?
1. Holga-F is a Holga lens that has been mounted on a
Nikon F-mount body cap. I don’t yet have a lot of information on the technical
aspects of this (focal length, etc).
f. What do the
B and N on the bottom of my 120N/120FN/120CFN mean?
1.
This is to select
BULB or
g. Where can I
get a copy of the Holga manual so I can learn how the designer intended me to
use this complicated, finely tuned piece of engineering?
1.
Freestyle Photo
has it online:
a.
http://www.freestylephoto.biz/pdf/HolgaManual.pdf
h. When I use
my on-camera flash, it pops like a toy gun and smells like something is
burning. Is this ok or am I going to burn my house down?
1. This is a new one. Someone asked this question and
someone else said their Holga does it too and it was ok. So until I hear from
someone that this resulted in damage to their camera or some other property in
some way, I will assume that this is normal for some Holgas and is nothing to
be concerned about.
2. Strictly speaking, it’s not SUPPOSED to happen. The
smell at least.
2. Film
a. What kinds
of film can I use in my Holga 120?
1.
Any type of 120
color print film (the film box will be marked as C-41 and/or “for color
prints”) will work fine with the Holga and can be processed anywhere that does
C-41 processing (the most common type of film processing) and can handle size
120 film (any semi-professional lab should be able to handle 120, but don’t
expect Walgreen’s to handle it). Due to the fixed nature of the Holga’s
exposures, choose your film speed carefully but don’t be afraid to waste a roll
or two finding the right speed for what you want to shoot.
·
Any type of 120
black and white film can be used in the Holga. The only difference between
B&W and other films is the processing. The lab must be able to handle black
and white. The exception to this rule would be the several black and white
films that take C-41 (color print) chemistry. If the box says C-41 on it, then
it takes C-41 chemistry. Otherwise it takes normal B&W.
·
Any 120 slide
film can be shot in the Holga as well. It is great for cross-processing (see
CROSS-PROCESSING section in TECHNIQUES) to get prints with heightened contrast
and wild colors.
·
For more detailed
information on 120 film
a.
http://www.answers.com/topic/120-film
·
35mm film can me
used with modification. See the section on 35mm film later.
·
Polaroid
pack-film can be used with the Polaroid back. See the section on the
“Polga/Holgaroid”.
b. Where can I
buy this magical film with the paper backing (120)?
1.
Your local
professional photography store and/or lab.
·
Online
a.
Freestyle
b.
eBay
d.
B&H
e.
Most online
photography retailers
c. What film
should I use in my Holga?
1.
This is a very
subjective question. Different people like different things so there’s no right
or wrong answer. Since this question is asked QUITE frequently, I will link to
the most recent occasion on which it was asked and answered by a number of
people.
a.
http://www.livejournal.com/community/allthingsholga/280530.html
d. How do I
load 120 film in my Holga?
1. Remove the back
2. Put the empty spool that is already in your camera on
the right side, with the knob.
3. Insert the new spool of unexposed film into the left
side, with the paper backing pointing to the right.
4. Pull it across the back and insert the folded flap
into the slot on the empty take-up spool.
5. Turn the knob a few times until the paper is wrapped
around the spool, but not too far.
6. Put the back on the camera and lock it in place with
the clips.
7. Set the switch on the red window to 12 if you have a
6x6 mask in or no mask at all. Set it at 16 if you have the 6x4.5 mask in.
8. Wind the knob until you see the 1 in the red window.
9. Take your photo
10.
Wind the knob
until it shows 2 in the red window
e. Where can I
get my 120 film processed?
·
Medium format film
(120) is not typically used by casual photographers any longer. It is strictly
the realm of professionals and crazy hobbyists who use cameras like the Holga.
However that does not mean that it is rare by any means. Many of the finest and
most expensive professional cameras being produced use 120 film because you can
get better quality enlargements from faster film from the larger negative (or
slide). The end result of all this is: You cannot usually get your film
processed at the local drug store. If you are fortunate enough to have a
professional lab in your area, check their prices. Pro-lab prices are usually
very reasonable as pros shoot a
f. Do I need to
give the lab any special instructions?
1.
They may ask you
if your photos are square or rectangular. If you have the plastic mask in,
they’re rectangular (6cm x 4.5cm), if not they’re square (6cm x 6cm or 2 ¼” by
2 ¼”)
2.
If you shot slide
film and want it cross-processed, make sure you tell them or you might get
slides back
3.
Everything else
is personal taste and purely optional
4.
The Lomography
Police will tell you to tell the lab “No Color Correction”. I don’t think it
makes much difference. Try it both ways and decide for yourself what YOU like
the best.
g. What IS
cross-processing anyway?
1.
Cross-processing
is the term used for processing any film in a chemistry other than what it was
designed for. There are 3 main types of chemistry commonly used, C-41 (color
print or negative), E-6 (color slide or transparency) and TRUE Black and White.
You can shoot C-41 film and process it in E-6 chemistry to get slides and you
can also shoot E-6 film and process it in C-41 chemistry to get negatives and
prints. Links to some examples follow:
a.
http://www.planetneil.com/faq/cross-processing.html
- A more thorough answer to the question of what x-processing is
b.
http://webmonkey.wired.com/webmonkey/99/23/index3a_page4.html?tw=design
– Examples of the results you can get from different types of slide film
c.
http://www.jlharris.net/jalbum/Film/Lens/Woca%20120GF/Roll%2003/index.html
- More cross-processed examples
h. How do I get
my photos scanned?
1.
Most labs will
scan your film for you while they have it for processing. Usually they give you
back a CD with a set of JPEGs, ready for the web. This won’t work for 35mm film
shot in Holga 120’s because their scanners cannot scan the full width of the
negative or the wider frame and it will cut off the sprockets.
2.
On this website you can get
information about how you can mail your negatives or prints to me for scanning.
3. Technique
a. How do I
shoot 35mm film in my medium-format Holga?
·
Rather than
rehash what’s been written already, I will simply link to others’ material
a.
http://shop.lomography.com/holga-backup/35.html
b.
http://www.livejournal.com/community/allthingsHolga/159734.html
c.
http://www.theverb.com/Holga/modification.htm
·
Another possibility,
if you’re handy in a darkroom, is to tape strips of 35mm film to 120 paper
backing and wind it onto 120 spools. This would add the advantages of not
wasting film by winding too far, you don’t have to shoot as many pictures to
finish the roll (you would get 12 or 16, just like 120 film) and you don’t have
to count the clicks. This probably is only an option if you’re developing your
film at home, but if you want to try 35mm in your Holga this way, explain it to
your lab and see if they will be able to process it.
b. 6x6? 6x4.5?
Square? Rectangular? What’s all this about?
·
Out of the box
your Holga 120 will take photos on negatives measuring 6cm x 4.5cm. If you
shoot with the camera held upright, your photos will be tall (6cm tall, 4.5cm wide),
if you rotate your camera 90 degrees you will achieve the standard horizontal
landscape format with 6cm wide, 4.5cm tall negatives. This is rectangular.
·
If you take out
the plastic mask inside the camera that covers the batteries on the flash
models, you will get the 6x6cm square negatives. There are small holes in the
top that will produce light
leaks. If you don’t want red splashed on your photos, you will need to seal
these light leaks.
·
Some Holgas now
include TWO masks. One 6x6cm (square format) with a “12” on it, indicating that
one roll of film will give you 12 6x6cm photos, the other is a 6x4.5cm
(rectangular) with a “16” on it indicating that you can take 16 photos on one
roll of 120 film.
·
If using a model
with on-camera flash in 6x6cm mode, be sure to tape in the batteries for the
flash. They are not held in position very securely by the tension of the
springs to they will probably fall out and rattle around, causing your flash
not to work and getting in your pictures and you won’t be able to fix it until
you are done with the roll of film.
c. I heard
these Holgas leak light like sieves! Do I need to mummify my Holga in tape to
keep light from leaking onto my undeveloped film?
1.
I have personally
only ever shot 100 speed film in my Holga (which is what it was designed for).
I have only ever had light leaks when I have removed the 6x4.5 mask. I have
never had light leaks from the red counter window in the back. I suspect that a
faster film would be more likely to get streaks from the red window. You do not
need to be paranoid about the window though, just don’t leave your camera with
the sun shining on the back. Just use your camera as normal and if you notice
red streaks on your photos try and figure out where the light is getting in and
tape it up. I would recommend securing the back somehow. Some people use tape,
some people use Velcro, I use a couple rubber bands. One around by the top of
the metal clips, one around by the bottom of the metal clips. I had the back
come off partially once before I started using rubber bands.
2.
See the following
link for a quick guide to taping your Holga
a.
http://www.davidniles.com/Holga/taping.html
d. Do I need
batteries in my Holga if I’m not using the built in flash?
1.
No. The Holga is
totally mechanical, except for the flash. If you don’t want to use the flash,
you can safely leave the batteries out.
e. Can I turn
off the flash?
1.
Yep, just flip
the switch. However, if the flash has been allowed to charge it will still
flash after the switch has turned off. Put your lens cap on and hit your
shutter release a couple times.
f. How do I
advance the film properly?
1.
If you are using
the 6x4.5 mask in your camera, the sliding switch on the back of the camera
should be pointed at the 16. If the mask is removed then it should point at the
12. After you have spooled the film onto the take up real and put the back on
the camera, watch carefully through the red window for numbers. Every different
type of film has a different way of marking the frames. Eventually you will see
a “1” through the window. Most likely it will be preceded by the manufacturer’s
name. Position this number in the center of the red counter window. Take your
photograph. Take a couple if you like. When you are ready to advance to your
next frame, watch the window again and advance until you see a “2”. And so on.
After you take your 12th or 16th shot, there are no more
numbers. Keep winding until there is nothing in the window anymore. Take out
the spool that the film as wound itself onto, lick the little strip and wrap it
around the roll. Then take it to the lab. The spool that the film was on when
you loaded it should now be moved to the other side to serve as the take up
spool for your next roll.
2.
If you are
shooting 35mm film in your medium format (120) Holga WITHOUT the mask in, you
need to advance the knob 34 clicks.
3.
When shooting
120, the numbers on the paper backing may be upside down. This is OK. They are
only there to measure the space between shots anyway.
g. How do I get
my film out? I heard I have to do it in a darkroom!
1.
After you pass
the last number (12 or 16) just keep winding the knob until you don’t see the
paper going by behind the window anymore. Give it a few more cranks and then it
is safe to open the camera and remove the take-up spool. There will be some
sort of adhesive strip to tape the roll closed. Some manufacturers use
self-adhesive, some use the kind you have to lick like stamps (I think Agfa
puts a pleasant minty flavor on theirs).
2. No, you don’t need a darkroom. 120 film has been
around for a long time and it wouldn’t have been so widely used if you have to
load and unload it in a darkroom. Instructions say to load and unload in
“subdued light” but even that is probably not necessary (I’ve loaded and
unloaded mine in direct sunlight without any effect). The paper backing on the
film will protect it from the sun’s rays.
3. If you notice that the film and paper are not rolling
tightly around the spool after shooting you can wedge a couple pieces of
cardboard (like from the box your film came in) on the ends of the spool with
the unexposed film on it (the left side spool) and it will give you more
tension, causing the film to wind more tightly.
h. I’ve got
some film that expired several months/years ago. Can I use it in my Holga?
1.
Film has a shelf
life for it’s usefulness to produce predictable and accurate results. Once you
pass that expiration date the manufacturer gives you no guarantee about what
you will get from it. How film is stored has more to do with how long it is
good. If it is kept in a moisture-proof container in a freezer it will be good
for far longer than if it’s stored on the dashboard of your car or the sunny
counter at a photomat. For experimental photography expired film is just fine.
Personally I’ve got about 20 rolls of Kodak Ektachrome in my freezer that I
shoot in my Holga regularly. It all expired in 1997 and I have no trouble with
it. I got a 5-pack of Kodak T-Max that expired in 1996 that turned magenta when
processed and I got practically no image on it. The short answer is, try a roll
and see if the results are what you want or can live with. You can pay less at
the lab if you just have them process it and not make any prints. This will be
perfectly sufficient to tell you if the film is usable or not.
i. How do I get
those famous “dreamy” Holga colors?
1.
The dreaminess of
the Holga’s images is due to the imperfections in the plastic lens and the fact
that it is a single element lens. The Woca shares these characteristics as even
though it has a glass lens, it’s still a single piece of optical material. The
end result is you will have certain spots on photos taken with your camera that
are maybe a little blurry. One of the first photographs I took with my Woca was
of my wife with some autumn foliage in the background. My Woca has a tendency
to soften the corners and the leaves looked very much like they were painted.
2.
If the colors you
are getting from your Holga aren’t vivid or dreamy enough for you, try better
film or try cross-processing. This type of photography is all about
experimentation, not following rules.
3.
I actually heard once
that some people bake their Holgas in an oven a little bit or using a cigarette
lighter to carefully warp the plastic lens. Personally, I think that’s
ridiculous. I’ve never seen a photo taken with one of these baked Holgas so I
can only assume that this is a joke. It also is possibly a rumor started by the
Lomographic Society to sell a crate of Holgas that partially melted while
sitting on a loading dock. You can use a little Vaseline (which has been done
for years with Polaroids) to get a similar effect, and if you screw up you can
wash it off.
j. Should I buy
those square, clip-on Holga filters?
1.
You can purchase,
instead, a 46mm step up ring that will allow you to use standard SLR filters on
your Holga. This offers you many more options as far as filters go instead of
just the few colors made by Holga. You can use close-up filters to allow you to
focus at ranges less than 3 feet. You can use Polarizing filters to remove
reflections from non-metallic surfaces and brighten colors. You can use an R72
infrared filter to filter out visible light and shoot true Infrared images with
Infrared film. You can use a warming filter to shoot Tungsten balanced film in
Daylight or a cooling filter to shoot Daylight film in Tungsten light. You can
also use conventional colored filters like Red,
2.
Get a step-up
ring from eBay or your local camera store. If you have SLR filters already
you’ll want one that steps-up to the same size. I use 55mm filters so the ring
on my camera is 46mm to 55mm.
3.
Screw it into the
plastic of the lens housing. The plastic is soft and the ring will cut it’s own
threads. Just do it slowly and with a steady hand, taking care to make sure
it’s straight. You don’t need to glue it in or anything, it should be stuck
quit firmly on it’s own.
4.
Now you can use
any filters you might have laying around in that size.
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